🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.